Tension Block Vs Hangboard. Lattice Crimp and Pinch Block: Best Portable Hangboard for

Lattice Crimp and Pinch Block: Best Portable Hangboard for Crimp Strength Who is it for? 2. Which hangboard is right for you? Saw pretty rapid progress because it was my focus. The next thing you need is a training load and lots of it. Crimping doesn’t. Hi, was looking into getting the Block by Tension Climbing to train finger strength without having to travel to my local climbing gym. Use them individually or in pairs to pick weight up off the Tension Simple Board vs Grindstone Mk2 - which is more comfortable? Hey r/climbharder, I'm shopping for a hangboard for home. For me, that's one of the most significant drawbacks of Arm-Lifting training. Oct 25, 2023 · Our Thoughts Does the perfect quiver-killer hangboard exist? Tension’s Honestone comes close. Simply put, it’s a block of wood with an assortment of edges, pinches, pockets, and little crimps. Aug 12, 2020 · Discover a hangboard routine meant to properly warm you up and build your strength, while preparing you to climb later that same day. If you really want to train max hang style with it then attach it to something stationary. so it’s double the workout time from a normal hangboard session but i’m still working my fingers so i think it’s worth it to maintain strength and a bit of endurance. I'm relatively strong with traditional hangboard protocols but never felt like it translated well to actual climbing. I use the tension block for the 6mm, the mono, and the pinches. Unlike traditional symmetrically-set boards (called systems boards), Tension’s version does not just allow the execution of mirrored isolated movements but is designed to create entire mirrored boulder problems. It offers a variety of edges, crimps, and slopers on a single block, and comes with an integrated attachment point—usually a built-in hole or metal eyelet. I prefer a single edge hangboard over the "variety" the block advertises. Tension Board (vs. lattice pinch block, tension block). As a result I was thinking of using a tension block to supplement my workout to help me continue strengthening my fingers. Apr 24, 2023 · Block Pulls have been a common modality for rehab (with small weights) as well as warming up at the crag (isometrics) for quite a while, but they’ve only recently been gaining attention as a staple for strength training. In this episode of our Fundamentals Series we cover the big questions in hangboard training and give you two fundamental training sessions every climbing will need if serious about training. During quarantine picked up a portable hangboard, The Block, from Tension Climbing. Elevate your fitness routine with tension blocks. I'm about a V4/V5 climber and so was wondering if it would be a good choice for me or if it's intended for higher grades, or if anyone had one themselves. I'm new to this subreddit so please excuse me if I break any guidelines with this post. The Grindstone is a precision-engineered edge training platform designed to meet the demands of climbers across the performance spectrum. FYI, “No hang” is typically used to refer to lifting weight off of the ground using a “no hang” device (e. However, many other blocks are available on the market, such as The Block from Tension Climbing or the V-Mobs block that Yves Gravelle uses 7 8 9. Aug 9, 2023 · Are no-hang systems the best tools to train finger strength? La Fabrique Verticale analyses the advantages and limits of these new tools. Discover compact, versatile options for building grip strength, whether you're at the gym or on an adventure. The All-in-one Climbing Training Solution. Whether you’re warming up at the crag, or training finger strength at the gym, a lifting edge (a. That is part of my regular training plan even in a full gym. It’s a high-quality wooden board with all of the edge depths a dedicated climber needs for structured hangboard training, and it’s very skin- and tendon-friendly to boot. With tension blocks you wouldn't have that problem but it would also be more difficult to find a spot where you can mount them. Only the grindstone m2k has 25mm+ but a 20mm and 15mm is all you really need. I still prefer a fixed hangboard to a no-hang device for most purposes (it's a lot easier reducing weight with a pulley or pulling BW one-armed on a big edge-- 20mmish-- than lifting BW one-armed on even the 20mm Tension block in my experience). No Hang Tools' Rise in Popularity A few events nudged no lifting into the level of popularity it’s currently receiving. The Block might be the single most useful block of wood we’ve ever made. Tension Honestone Hangboard - Tension - The Honestone is a purpose-built tool for preparing athletes for their hardest sends. Moonboard: Recruitment, body tension, pulling power, contact strength, in between campus and hangboard for loading. Nov 27, 2023 · Can anyone shed any light on the training benefits of using a hanboard versus lifts (e. This is a nice and easily storable solutions. I use the Tension campus rungs (35mm, 25mm, 20mm), and the standard lattice hangboard for their data. I don't train for the sake of training. My guess is that your crimp weakness might be a combination of psychological and neurological. ) The holds just clip on and off the aluminum cleats. Tension has upped the portable-hangboard ante with The Block, a 9oz piece of cherry wood with over nine different hold positions. If your ability to hang on to a few more crimps is the difference between sending or not sending a route, for example, you could probably benefit from focused hangboard sessions. Curious as to how well 1 arm 20mm tension block weighted no hangs correlate to 20mm edge hangboarding. The taper also lets you train two- and three-finger hangs without the need for a pocket—on other boards, with flatter or more incut edges, trying to train “pockets” this way often Nov 10, 2023 · A hangboard is one of the best off-wall climbing training anyone can use, and if you're on a quest to find some of the best hangboards in 2023, you've landed in the right place. I did some searching and there were very few comparisons between these two about comfort (maybe saw 2 comments between reddit and mountainproject). Lattice block, Tension block, etc a dumbbell for finger curls, wrist curls, etc anything that keeps your fingers moving, Alex Barrows talked about doing juggling for AeroCap Also, isolating the ring finger and doing open finger mono hangs/pulls were good for my finger. So, I'm curious as to why this approach isn't recommended for grip training using a NoHang device (such as the Tension Block). I have a fixed board and a portable hangboard. What you’re talking about is just hangboarding with your feet on the ground. When you look at it this way, it is pretty easy to narrow down your hangboarding grip types: Strength on slopers is not so much about pure forearm flexion as it is about body positioning and shoulder/core strength. For me it was perfect for training, because open hand comes easy for me. Nov 16, 2020 · Tension’s Grindstone models do not suffer from this problem. MoonBoard vs Kilter Board vs hang board vs campus board - what's the difference!? If you’ve ever wondered to yourself what these training boards are, how to use them, and how they help you train - you’re in luck. May 7, 2024 · I've done these quite a lot with a tension block and really like them. Have any of you tried both these methods? I'd appreciate your experiences, insights, and any relevant research you might know. Does training one help with the other? I have looked up past questions regarding no hangs but haven't seen any posts strictly comparing numbers. Nov 9, 2022 · 2022 – Finally found a good pattern of hitting Tu/F as moderately hard volume days by summer with very light climbing on Sunday or light tension block. The Tension Block is again good for this as you'd need to unload a ton of weight on a pulley system if you were to try this on a hangboard. Mar 20, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 1:03 Workout3:11 T Hey dudeskis, My new apartment doesn’t have space for a hangboard, so I’m planning on getting a “the block” from tension climbing or a gripster… Aug 20, 2019 · Use the hangboard to get “generally” strong fingers and the system board/tension board/bouldering to get “specifically” strong. The Tension Board 2 sets do not include a wall or panels Check out our FAQ page for wall options and other frequently asked questions Please note that there is a 3% processing fee that is non-refundable Hardware sold separately The individual blocks of the tension simple board, combine with a French clete on each on that make them adjustable is by far the most comfortable board I’ve used. I'm considering buying an at home board at some point in the next few months, and I'm curious how these 2 (or 3) boards stack up with each other. Aug 24, 2023 · The Whetstone is perhaps the most thoughtfully considered beginner-focused fingerboard on the market—an upgrade from aging classics like the Beastmaker 1000 and the ever-present Metolius lineup. I think curls have definitely improved my ability to close my hand down. I used to really struggle reeling in small incut edges to a closed crimp. Do you fully replace using the hangboard (for max hangs) ? Does it translate well to real rock climbing? I train to perform better in real rock. You want it to be the thinnest edge you can hang on for 13-15 seconds with an open grip. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Grip strength is essential for bouldering and sport climbing. In descending order of preference they are probably: a full hangboard e. I’m finding the max ‘lifts’ more convenient but was wondering how the training stimulus differed. I also diy grip implements out of wood for lifting and I have been considering making some smaller edges to dangle from as well. Feb 10, 2024 · The injury was enough to send the climber to the hospital. Tension Flash Board: Best Portable Hangboard for Traveling Climbers Who is it for? 4. Tension block, tension flashboard, tension grindstone m2k connected to detachable pullup bar. The bm1k would also be fine for beginners if you ask me. it’s one hand at a time. Besides strengthening your tendons and ligaments, hangboarding provides a secure environment to practice using different holds. It doesn't leave any option for pull-ups at home though. k. May 23, 2024 · Hangboard Training: What is a Hangboard and How Do You Use it? Hangboards, also known as “fingerboards,” are crafted from wood, polyurethane, or polyester resin and feature various holds carved into their surface. a. Featuring an assortment of edges, ranging from 35mm to the heinous 7mm, the Grindstone Pro is perhaps the best hangboard for the individual that wants to grow with their board without the worry of replacing it. In the pictures it’s usually a Tension Flashboard ($75-$85) or The Block ($40-$45) so I figured I’d throw in a few plugs for Will Anglin’s shop. Hanging from a dangling board is also harder and will take some time to get used to. Metolius Rock Rings 3D Check out our tension climbing block selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our fitness & exercise shops. I had a Yubi board by digit climbing. The Tension block though is sweet. Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. I think fixed is lightly better in terms of repeatability and ease of use. Five Effective Hangboard Training Protocols for Increasing Grip Strength and Endurance. But some reasons people do it: Pinchblocks! Isolate your weaker hands fingers, or when you need to step it down on one hand due to injury. Kilter Board?) Hi all. Supercharged collagen. Our flagship Tension Board is the ultimate confluence of training, practice, and performance. May 9, 2024 · Based on our research and testing, we think the Tension Climbing Grindstone is the best Hangboard available in 2026. Hangboard 1 is the best of the bunch if you're looking at doing a proper hangboard program. That being said having a portable hang board vs no hangboard, having a portable hangboard and using it is far better. The absolute best hangboard on the planet is a piece of wood nailed to a doorway. Tension grindstone, Beastmaker 1000, etc a 'pinch block' style device e. Ideal for structured finger strength You don't need anything except the Tindeq, your portable edge block of choice (I use the Tension Block), a couple carabiners, and a sling. How to Train Finger Strength for Climbing [Block Pulls Guide] Hooper's Beta 146K subscribers Subscribe I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. Over the past 2 years, the Lattice coaches have replaced fingerboard workouts with lifting edge workouts in over 30% of training plans 🤯In this video we Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Usually just hang a weight though bc when I use it, it’s usually at home when I don’t have access to a wall or hangboard and I started packing it on work trip for the hotel gym. Plus, new hangboard workouts & the best hangboard workouts for beginners. Mar 24, 2020 · Tension added the taper to keep the edge comfortable and not bite into your skin, allowing you to hangboard multiple days in a row or after a climbing session. I didn’t expect that from such a small device. Individual Training Blocks The Metolius Wood Rock Ring allows you to lift weights with your fingers as opposed to hanging from a hangboard. this isn't a commercial advertisement tho, it's some dude reviewing it. This would actually have a big benefit for tracking your numbers, because you get more evenly spaced data (three weeks of data every five months, is less useful than one week of data every five weeks). lifting block, portable hangboard, no hang device, block pull) is an increasingly popular alternative to traditional hangboarding. May 15, 2019 · The Tension Climbing Block. What You'll Need for Hangboard Training Hangboard: Buy a hangboard, also called a fingerboard, use the one at your local climbing gym or make your own. If you fail the "Entry Gate" test, you risk a pulley snap. The portable one makes it out for work trips and other travel where I won't have a fixed one. Oct 26, 2023 · Ever since its release in 2020, the Tension Grindstone Mk2 has ranked among my favorites, so when I heard the Denver-based company was releasing two new boards this year, the Honestone and the I weigh 165lbs and I can hang one arm off the small BM 2K edge, whatever size that is, for 4-5 seconds. Jan 20, 2021 · Which is better: the hangboard or the system board? Well, they both have their pros and cons. Moonboard vs. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I’ve read some posts about hangboarding being really bad for beginners and I was hoping that using a tension block would allow for a more controlled workout and not over exert my fingers like a hangboard would. Dave Macleod – How to Hangboard This paragraph was a pretty big wake-up call about training and what was possible. What are people's results with no -hang devices like the tension block. Maybe I can’t hangboard 6 days a week, but I can hangboard 3-4 days a week consistently, and increase the load. The Grindstone Hangboard, along with all of Tension’s products, holds a focus on precision. It would seem extremely cumbersome to load up much more. However, I've noticed there's a lack of beginner-friendly hanging routines. The general consensus is that beginners should avoid Hangboard training for at least a year to prevent injuries. not sure why you would hate on Tension because someone decides to review their products. Aug 28, 2022 · Everything you need to know about hangboarding, beginner-advanced. Hangboard 2 is ok if you're going to use it to warm up at the crag or the boulders. I train pinch block, hangboard with pinches, bumper plate pinches, and exclusively climbed pinch problems on spray wall. Jun 26, 2024 · A lifting edge is quickly becoming the essential training tool in every climber’s pack. Doing hangboard workouts for beginners? Stop. Apr 24, 2020 · It was one of the biggest lessons I learned. Metolius Rock Rings Training Tool: Best Portable Hangboard for Climbers on a Budget Who is it for? 3. Compact, durable, and skin-friendly—it delivers effective finger training without the need for a traditional hangboard. One move on a route had a gross (for me) compression double pinch and it took about 3 weeks of training pinch and working on that route. The Hangboarding Training Protocol My training protocol was simple. This facilitates quite a nice variety of finger training while minimizing equipment needs while traveling. Mar 15, 2021 · Are tension climb hangboards worth it? And are these the best hangboards for beginner climbers? We reviewed the most popular hangboards to answer which finge Tyler’s system is notable because it’s typically attached between a static, immovable anchor and a portable hangboard. So if you have done both types of training, what are your: weighted 1 arm hangs (please include edge size, whether you are just lifting off the A worldwide favorite since 2018, The Block is a premium no-hang training tool designed to help climbers build finger and grip strength—anywhere, anytime. The tension grindstone pro has pretty much all the features you could want in a hangboard I think. Progressed nicely from sessioning V6-V7s on tension board in June/July to, at the time of writing, being able to single session multiple V8s and sometimes V9 per training day. They're pretty expensive though so I made mine, if you own a router it's pretty easy to make one yourself. So, two pulleys. Let’s explore each of these unique training tools to see what they’re all about and learn how they could help you reach your climbing goals. It might seem hard now but you can control the weight by either hanging or just pulling hard with both feet on the ground. Sep 21, 2024 · The All-in-one Climbing Training Solution. a Tension Block)? I’m thinking with regard to max finger strength - not repeaters or any endurance protocol. . Feb 7, 2022 · Different hangboards make sense for different climbers at different times. Jun 2, 2025 · A Tension Block is a small, handheld hangboard crafted from wood. Kelly Corrigan Training blocks, like Tension Blocks or Metolius Wood Rock Rings, are a great alternative to hangboards. The Block might be the single most useful block of wood Tension's ever made. It even does the one finger/2 finger hangs well. Once you start using it you’ll realize that there is a lot more than meets the eye. The hangboard is measured and made of the highest quality materials. Aug 25, 2025 · Even as products like the Tension Block became more popular, these tools were mostly used as a supplement for warming up for outdoor climbing and occasionally mixed into training by people seeking novelty. Has anyone had experience with both to compare? i’ve been doing weighted repeaters for the past few days with my tension block. Never used it, wasn't a fan of that style. Nov 26, 2019 · The Simple Board is a modular hangboard system designed to take you back to the basics of training. Roy Quanstrom walks us through the official overview for the Tension Climbing Block. Usually 30-70lbs. Learn five effective finger training protocols for climbers, as well as nutritional secrets for tendon health and strength gains. Still, I am a bit curious to get everyone's feedback and experiences about the pros and cons of each of these hangboards. The solution ~ Using a portable edge like a tension block! If you have the rope hang out the face of the block then the edge is more/less positive depending on if you're exerting pressure on the edge of the edge, or deep inside the edge. Trango Hangboard vs Beasmaker2000 vs Transgression My current bouldering gym has all 3 options available. It features a comprehensive progression of edge depths paired with Tension's signature edge radius profile that maximizes comfort while training. But recent changes means my hangboard is now outdoors and very condition dependent. Dec 11, 2021 · Tension Board Training The Tension Board is an 8’ by 12’ symmetrically-set board with all wooden holds made by Tension Climbing. So instead of 3 weeks Tension board, 1 week deload, you could do 3 weeks Tension board, 1 week deload, 1 week hangboard, or something like that. Kilter Board @KilterClimbingGrips vs the new Tension Board 2 @tensionclimbing ! Which is the better training tool for climbers? Here are some of the pros and The Murus Hangboard which uses the quick change holds we make in 4 separate stations spanning about 24 inches (600mm. I like the tension block too. Sep 5, 2020 · Besides whether the edge radius issue, the knock-off is composed of multiple glued pieces vs a solid block of wood. Find out which types of hangboards deliver the best results for climbers focused on grip strength and lasting endurance. you're renting, so you simply have no means to hang a hangboard in your place. Designed and tested by coaches, trainers, professional athletes, and lifelong climbers. It’s the most „engaging“ edge and really makes you try hard. They have been extremely useful and such a great find. Check the 3 red flags first. The Block might be the single most useful block of wood Tension has ever made. Tbh, I believe that no hang devices such as the Tension Block or Grippul are best for some sort of rehabbing or last resort training tool. Hangboards, portable hangboards, pinch blocks, and rock climbing training equipment. You just need to be careful not to overdo it. When you're a beginner then your tendons are still adapting to the stress you're putting them under and so you're more vulnerable to injury. I’ve got the tension block (bought it right as the lockdown started in my area since I don’t have a hangboard) and I love it! No idea how it stacks up against the competitors, but it’s a really great product. I know that it always come down to personal preferences when choosing which hangboard to use. Now I'm trying to decide between finger curls with a dumbbell, which seems to be uncommon but relatively established, and no hang crimp-ups, by which I mean no hanging with a Tension block (or other) starting in an open hand and moving the weight up into half crimp and pushing it towards the palm. Tension have incorporated all the necessities for climbers looking to push their limits. g. But hell, it's just a training tool so who cares as long as it gets your fingers strong. Tension Climbing Grindstone Sep 30, 2025 · Buy for $30 on REI Tension Climbing The Block (aka Tension Blocks) When Tension Blocks came out in 2019, they were so novel I didn’t understand them—did you hang them from a tree branch and do pull-ups/deadhangs for a cliffside warm-up? Clip a draw to the keeper loop and stand on it, to pull against the crimps and fire up your digits? Sep 18, 2024 · The tension block is also super useful for finger strength testing and pairs well with the Tindeq Progressor or a lifting pin to determine your max strength on your desired edge, pocket, or pinch Tension Block 2/Lattice mini bar/Captain Fingerfood portable Hangboard. May 10, 2022 · Our Method Our Selection of the Best Portable Hangboards for 2026 Comparison Table 1. Apr 7, 2024 · They come with three edge depths of 19 mm, 12 mm, and 7 mm. Dec 2, 2020 · The Grindstone Pro is a more advanced version of the popular Tension Grindstone hangboard.

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